A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about flats




1. Tourism – They haven’t quite got it mastered yet but they are getting there. Our excursions and travels were all without incident but bathrooms and water were never as simple as in Peru. Our tour coordinator thought a 4-ounce bottle of water would do us on the 11-hour bus trip.
2. Mining is the number one industry.
3. The poorest of all the South American countries. Sixty percent of the population live below the poverty line and it is worst in rural areas. Some of the areas we drove through were the worst I have ever seen.
4. Has two capital cities. Sucre is the official capital although La Paz is considered to be the administrative capital.
5. Altitude. La Paz, is considered to be the highest capital in the world. It is 3640 meters above sea level (11,942 feet).
6. The airport (El Alto) is even higher at 4100 meters above sea level. We were many places higher than that. We felt fine until we walked up hill, even an incline was labour intensive. Everything was up hill!
7. With altitude comes dry land and dry air. My skin feels like leather. We all had a few minor nose bleeds.
8. Wifi – almost as bad as Peru.
9. Even more people chew Coca. The government claims to have strict control over the use of the leaves claiming all the cocaine in the country is coming from the bordering countries. From what I gather, no one believes that.
10. Bolivian Salt Flats. Tick! 11,000 square kilometers of flat white salt. Once under the ocean, now hosts very little wildlife, except the pink flamingos.
11. Many issues with drunk drivers on the salt flats. We even saw a driver, with tourists, drinking out of a flask. I expressed my concern when we booked and we had no issues. Our drivers were great.
12. Eighty percent of the population is Catholic however the Quechua and Aymara often pray to the Virgin Mary and the various Catholic saints while simultaneously offering sacrifices to the Pachamama (Mother Earth). Llama fetuses are often part of the sacrifice.
13. A decent meal is…..I am not sure we had one. Quinoa and potato with no seasoning. A bottle of water was between 5-8bs. Pizza was popular and our saviour. Our hotel in La Paz did have decent food and we ate there a few times.
14. The currency is the Boliviano; one Canadian dollar is about 5 bs.
15. Llama is on every menu.
16. The Cholas or Cholitas. The ladies in the big skirts and bowler hats or fancy hats carrying the colourful bags which hold goods or children. The sense of elegance is a direct contradiction to the obvious poverty. I often felt like I was walking through a movie set.
17. I will not forget all the begging in the street or worst the very young children dancing in the streets with a money dish in front of them. When we walked by, I saw a mother push her daughter to perform in hopes that we might pay. As much as it breaks my heart, I would never pay. I cannot encourage such exploitation of children.
18. I won’t forget the kids being offered cocaine in the streets in broad daylight.
19. La Paz was interesting and beautiful but it was also a little scary. I never felt like going out after dark. As much as I loved my time there, it made me a little sad.
20. I won’t forget how I felt when my guide told me he saved two of four Advil I gave him days before. Here’s what happened…..

While we took the nice tourist bus to Uyuni, our guide had to take a different, and I imagine, not so nice, bus. He had little sleep and at the end of our magnificent first day on the salt flats, he looked tired and mentioned he had a headache. He said don’t worry, I will go look for a pharmacy to see if I can get something. I gave him enough Advil for the night (4). Three days later when I hired him for our extra day, he asked me about them and said they worked so well, he saved two of them in case his daughter or wife had a headache or pain. He told me medicine was available but expensive and they would never use ibuprofen for pain, it was for serious fever. The conversation continued and I got the impression that although he was university educated, his life was not that easy. When we parted, he had my bottle of Advil, some Tylenol and a number of other things that I no longer needed. Talk about perspective.

Posted by curlygirl 15:13 Archived in Bolivia Tagged bolivia salt flats uyuni Comments (0)



sunny 14 °C

Our day started at 10 this morning which was a considerable sleep in on our very busy schedule.

We headed back out on to the flats and drove 100 kilometers towards a small village stopping to look at a volcano along the way. We were supposed to climb this volcano but it is over 18,000 feet. Not a chance when we have just adjusted to this altitude. So instead we made an alternate plan and continued on to the village. Juan told us that only 40 couples remain living there and that all the children had moved to bigger centers. That only makes sense given the isolation. Saying that it was a real treat. First we saw fields of llamas and flamingos nearby by drinking in the little puddles of water. I had no idea flamingos live here. It seems there would be nothing to eat. And what does that salt do to their blood pressure. I tried to get close to them but they didn’t like me if you can imagine that.


In the little town we visited the home / museum of a local man who, over the years has found tons of artifacts from the pre-inca times, artifacts from those known as the Tiwanaku. Here, sitting in his backyard are intact jugs, pottery, weapons, cooking utensils that are thousands of years old. This would never happen in North America as they are so valuable and impossible to replace.

This same man has created rock formations to look like animals. A bit of an artist in a strange sort of way.


As well, there is an open tomb where a mummy remains as it was found.


In the same village sits a church that was once surrounded by homes made of stone. The church is still used for special occasions. Isaac did't quite fit in the bell tower.


Next was a visit to a cave. There were three kids looking after the generator for this cave and they pulled up on motorcycle.


After another picnic lunch on the salt, we visited another rock formation where another tomb was found. Again, in the middle of no where and wide open with no one guarding the remains.


From there we began the long drive home. We stopped midway for a few more attempts at goofy pictures. Isaac slept through this.


After returning to Uyuni we grabbed a quick supper and caught a flight back to La Paz. Looking forward to have two nights in the same bed. and having some time to relax today.

Posted by curlygirl 06:32 Archived in Bolivia Tagged bolivia salt flats uyuni Comments (1)



sunny 15 °C


I am writing from under my duvet and heated blanket at our beautiful salt hotel. My view as I glance up from my computer is a dome of salt blocks above my bed. The hotel is made primarily of salt with some wood used in the framing and hallways. There are fireplaces everywhere and I feel such peace. Isaac is snoring beside me as he is completely exhausted from a very full day in the open air. He loves the hotel but his giant feet almost got him in trouble as he was gazing around and accidently chipped a little salt from a center piece. Oops.


We have had so little down time and terrible internet so I am writing this in hopes of catching up tomorrow from La Paz.

I will write little and share way too many pictures of this incredible place that was simply an ocean 50,000 years ago. As the ocean evaporated Uyuni was left with a never ending sea of salt at over 3600 meters above sea level. The remaining salt is mined and exported and draws thousands of tourist a week. It is no wonder. I can’t believe that when I first started planning this trip with Lorna I didn’t really want to come here. It is now on my list of favorite places I have seen. I loved my day.

We arrived in Uyuni at 7 am and after a leisurely breakfast headed out.

Our first stop was quite bizarre. We visited the train graveyard and it is exactly that. Uyuni was once the maintenance center for all trains in the region but as technology improved, the need no longer existed and the old trains were simply left in the area. It didn’t sound all that interesting but it was cool. The kids had a blast climbing around and on top of the wrecks.


From there we went to see how the salt was processed and ventured out onto the salt flats. We stopped to see the oxygen bubbling up from the water below. Yikes, it was scary to learn that there is water all below us and people have actually gone through. A 45-minute drive took us to the middle of the flats where we tried some funny pictures and enjoyed a picnic lunch.




Then another hour drive into the vast fields brought us to the most specular little island filled with cactuses. We hiked to the tops for more incredible views. I have never seen anything like it.


Another hour drive (I have no idea how our driver knew where he was going since everything looks the same) took us to an area which is normally filled with water so we could see the reflections. In the last week the water evaporated leaving only small puddles for us to take some reflection photos and watch the sun go down.


The entire day, I was mesmerized by the never ending sea of white and the constantly changing skies, clouds and colours.


I thought nothing could make the day better until we arrived at our hotel. Cozy, quaint and unique. Yet another very special place on our little adventure.


Posted by curlygirl 20:44 Archived in Bolivia Tagged bolivia salt flats uyuni Comments (4)



sunny 14 °C


La Paz is a beautiful city and we had a chance to explore it first with our guide Juan and later by ourselves.

First we went to a high point to get a view of the city below.


Next stop was the Moon Valley which was named after Neil Armstrong visited and described the landscape to be just like a moon valley. Of course it was a less developed back then but the combination of rain on the mud makes an interesting landscape.


We stopped at another high view point before heading down to the local square where Isaac once again joined the police for a photo op. There were lots of locals enjoying a Sunday afternoon.


Check out the numbers on the clock. The designer thought this is how it should look in the southern hemisphere.


After lunch, we visited the famous witches’ market which is really more of a handicraft market. There are a few shops that sell supplies for black and white magic which is still practiced today in Bolivia. In addition, llama fetuses are used for sacrifice in the region. There were all these silly looking gods as well. They looked more like dolls.


We had a quick look there before spending the afternoon poking in and out of shops. We did notice some locals selling drugs but they were not interfering at all. But, at one point while the grownups were looking at the alpaca products, a drug dealer approached the kids to see if they were interested in cocaine. When I approached and asked what was happening, I heard him say something about the “madre”, Spanish for mother and that was the end of that.


We stopped by San Francisco Cathedral before making our way back to the hotel in time to catch our overnight bus to Uyuni. The bus left La Paz at 9pm and arrived at 7pm. The bus was comfortable with seats that reclined almost flat so we all got a reasonable amount of sleep. A big step up from our hippie bus ride the day before.




These ladies are called chola derived from the Spanish for pretty.


Posted by curlygirl 02:55 Archived in Bolivia Tagged bolivia salt flats uyuni Comments (2)

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